6th September: Sheki, Azerbaijan
We asked for breakfast in the homestay, and they were able to cook up a vegan feast for us. We awoke to the smell of bread baking and as well as a whole fresh loaf, we were treated to an apple version of powidla (kind of a caramelised fruit jam), cucumber, watermelon, fried aubergine and tomato, as well as a pot of tea. We ate in the garden amongst the grape vines and pomegranate trees. Such a beautiful way to start the day!
We filled up our water from the fresh mountain supply which arrives in the garden and retreated inside to spend the morning sketching and writing.
Today is cloudy and a welcome 22C. We set out into this welcoming weather to wander the steep cobbled streets of old Sheki in the early afternoon, still with leftover aubergine sandwiches from breakfast to tide us over. There are an impressive set of old Soviet era vehicles still operating on the rough streets here and they are probably preferable to modern vehicles due to their high torque and easy repairability. Many are also beautiful to my eye.
The Sheki Palace was the single most impressive building we’ve seen yet on this trip. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside (and we were watched throughout!). The walls and ceilings throughout had intricate drawings. Battles between different groups and between different animals, turned those of peaceful co-existence. Human-animal hybrids showed strength but with kindness (such as flowers from a dragon’s mouth). Birds and many plants and fruits were also repeatedly shown. The windows were incredible pieces of geometric art with patterns based on 8-, 10-, or 12-point stars and the various resultant shapes. An entire window was made by slotting together small pieces of wood and coloured glass in a style known as Shedeki, without any nails or adhesive and like a giant jigsaw puzzle. The four colours in the glass represent spring (green), summer (red), autumn (yellow), and winter (blue). The external photos and a few from other buildings and an artisan’s workshop give an idea of the skill this must take.
The rest of the fortress complex appears to be in the process of being restored. Hopefully this is as tasteful as in Sheki Palace and not the over-restoration evident in Baku. We later also visited the Shakhikhanovs’ Palace where one room had a very similar style, and 70% was original.
We were fortunate enough to be given a guided tour of Khan Mosque by the Imam, who was very generous with his time. The beautiful handmade carpets and dark wooden pillars, in addition to the warm welcome, made us feel very comfortable.
The Caravanserai, still used as a hotel but without the animals these days, was interesting to pop in to. We thoroughly enjoyed our first day in beautiful and relaxing Sheki.
Whilst having dinner we met two other people who are heading to the Georgian border on Sunday, so we’re going to try to share a taxi directly there. Unfortunately, marshrutky (small buses) only go as far as Balakan, from where a taxi is required regardless to the border.