8th September: Sheki, Azerbaijan to Sighnaghi, Georgia
Having packed last night, we had one final breakfast in the garden before leaving. Ilqar even picked us some fresh apples! We were at the Karvansaray at 9:55 and Salman was already waiting for us. He gave us some more freshly picked apples and pears from his garden to take with us! Such kindness. I’m disappointed that I can’t eat them, but especially with the allergic reaction yesterday which I’m still not over it’s a bit too risky. A couple of minutes later, Kylian and Jakob arrived and we off for the border. There was a tiny street dog puppy around the car and, as we rolled away, I managed to just about push it out from under the wheel through the open door. I guess it’s just the way things are here, but it broke our hearts. Hopefully, the little thing finds somebody to look after it.
We passed many huge alluvial valleys fanning out into the plain, running off of the mountains to our right. Clouds wisped at the top of distant peaks, making it difficult to tell if they were actually snowy. Within an hour and a half, we were at the border. We posed with Salman for a photo and sent it to him on WhatsApp. Apparently, he keeps an album of everyone he’s taken from different countries. Currently, only foreign passport holders can exit overland through this remote crossing. Azerbaijanis cannot enter or exit their own country overland at any crossing. Flying is allowed but is prohibitively expensive for many.
We’ve had a great time in the country. It is chaotic and must be experienced for it to make sense. The people are some of the warmest I’ve ever met and we’ve felt incredibly welcome wherever we’ve been. We kind of wish we that could see Baku again without the panic of the missing bag hanging over us, so that we could fully engage with a completely unique city. Sheki was wonderful, especially the Palace. We hope to feel the same way about every other country we visit too.
The exit process from Azerbaijan was 3 steps of a passport check and stamping, customs, and then another passport check. There was a little way to walk between each, but the entire process took about 20 minutes. After walking across the bridge at this spectacular and little-used crossing into Georgia, we got our stamp and then a quick bag scan and customs check. Kaja’s medication was flagged, causing a little stress, but all was well after they translated the medication name and doctor’s note. On to country number three!
We shared a taxi, which first had to be jump-started, to the nearest town and then hopped into a Tbilisi-bound marshrutka. The ticket seller drew us a map of where to get out and we paid the driver 5 Lari (£1.35) each for the partial journey. The landscape was lush, green, and had huge diversity of flora. One minute we’d pass a large field of ancient oaks with grazing horses, the next there would be overgrown fruit gardens which included grapes, pomegranates, apples, melons, and even bananas! We got out at Tsnori and parted way with the boys. A taxi took us up the countless switchbacks to Sighnaghi, a pearl of the Kakheti wine region. The entire trip from Sheki was around 4 hours.
Our accommodation was double-booked, so, with only one night here and wanting to explore, we took a discount to stay in a different room. Annoyingly, we lost the view we’d booked for, but we’d decided to stay out for sunset anyway. We were a bit taken back by the tour groups and usual tat that brings, but thankfully they dispersed by late afternoon, and we were left to wander the ancient walled city.
Various towers were accessible by climbing ancient, crumbling and dark stone stairs and some of the walls were also walkable. The views back down over the plain stretched as far as the haze would allow. The golden sunset on the ancient towers was picture postcard perfect. Our spot for dinner gave us the prime view.
I’ve never eaten so much aubergine (twice each of the last 3 days) but I’m loving it. One of my favourite vegetables is in season here and we’ve eaten it fried with fresh bread for breakfast, pickled, or, as now, rolled with walnut paste. So, so tasty! Washed down with deep-bodied Georgian red wine and with an incredible landscape filling my vision, this was a moment I’d long dreamt of. Georgia might just be pretty special too.
