9th September: Sighnaghi, Georgia to Telavi, Georgia
Up early for the only daily marshrutka to Telavi, which was 20 Lari as opposed to 80 for a taxi. The ride was generally full, with one man praying at every chapel we passed and blessing me whenever I sneezed. The allergic reaction seems to have resolved as hayfever, which is hardly surprising given the variety of plants.
We’re interested in how the tea culture changes from country to country. In Turkey, black tea was brewed in a two level çaydanlık and served by the small glass with sugar to add to taste. Azerbaijan was very similar, with a teapot above a samovar but tended to come by the pot for multiple glasses each. Georgia seems to have more options of types of tea. Whilst still being loose leaf, what we’ve had so far has been served brewing in tea pots with ceramic cups.
Coffee wise, I’ve just been drinking Turkish coffee everywhere so far!
Upon arrival in Telavi, capital of Kakheti province, we walked up through the bazaar towards the historic centre, picking up walnuts and plums along the way. A relaxed lunch included lots more barbecued veggies and rice, and mushroom-filled khinkali (bell-shaped dumplings, where the doughy ends aren’t eaten).
Our room today is lovely, with a sofa, table and chairs, and balcony. Perhaps this is karma for yesterday! There are three WiFi networks, each named after one of the owner’s dogs. I liked to imagine them each wandering around with a router on their collars, but sadly that’s not that case! Our WiFi dog, Tsangala, does appreciate a belly rub though. We decided to chill for a couple of hours to research a wine tour but they are surprisingly difficult to book. They are all from Tbilisi despite the vineyards being all around us here, so we will have to sort something DIY tomorrow.
From the hill at the top of town, the mountains were again visible across a vast plain to the north. The haze restricted us to muted views of their outline but hinted at vastness.
As the light turned golden, we wandered up through the famous streets with wooden balconies. The provincial capital felt small and relaxed now, and indeed it is at 18,000 (half the size of Exmouth). Arriving in the heat into the bazaar earlier had given the impression of a much bigger, slightly oppressive place. Looking over the mountains, with boys playing football in front of a semi-abandoned church, it’s hard to imagine a more village scene.
We’re both starting to feel a bit under the weather, so found ourselves a warming meal. Lobio is a redbean stew, with slightly spicy hints, served in a clay pot. We ordered Mchadi (dense cornbread) with this, as it’s the traditional way. I got the blog working, kind of! The first 11 days should be online and the next batch will follow soon (as you’re reading this, that means they’re on too!). I’m going to keep writing as regularly as I’m able to. I like doing to it daily as it helps me understand the places we’re visiting by thinking more deeply about them and my responses, but if it becomes a chore then it’ll be a bit less regular. They’ll probably be online in batches as and when we’ve got time and a place where I’m and to sit down for a couple of hours to edit, add photos and upload.