6th October: Tbilisi, Georgia
We’re still feeling the simultaneous effects of the sleeper train and trying to book things on the road, so today was another slow start. We did book hotels for our first two places outside of Beijing – Datong and Pingyao – though, and we’re getting there with an idea of itinerary.
Sometime after lunch and in a very stop-start manner via snacks and coffee, we walked up to the Holy Trinity Cathedral on the high ground east of the river. From the front, there are 4 impressively symmetrical layers to the building, although each obscures a fair amount of the level above. Churches in Tbilisi are a much warmer light-yellow brick than those we’ve been used to in Armenia recently and looked vibrant under the blue skies. Inside, people prayed to each saint, kissing the glass in front of the painting. The edge must be slightly taken off the moment though, as a church person follows closely along with a disinfectant spray and cloth!
We were both still mentally overloaded and Kaja needed quiet, so went back to the room to chill. I needed to wander the streets aimlessly, which turned into another 15km walk.
Tbilisoba was still in full swing. This must be the busiest weekend of the year. Everybody is out on the streets partying in all kinds of manners. Following the trend of seeing the president wherever we visit, the Georgian leader was dancing along to two inflatable giraffes singing children’s songs! I couldn’t get through the scrum of media and bodyguards try get a decent photo, unfortunately. Georgia is only weeks away from an important election, so this was also likely part of the campaign trail.
My wanderings eventually took me north along Rustaveli. The back streets were alive with every type of restaurant and takeaway you could wish for. I found a falafel wrap with extra spice, which I ate whilst watching one of a multitude of buskers. Radiohead’s Creep went down surprisingly well with the massed crowds who’d stopped on their way to celebrate the evening!
After dark, the streets really came alive. Official and unofficial parts of Tbilisoba were popping up on every corner. This ranged from regional cheese tasting, to produce shows, to children’s entertainment, to homemade alcohols, to more coal meat grills than I’ve seen in one place. I followed the crowds back to the centre, where a band had taken to the stage and the chacha was flowing. Tbilisi is undoubtedly a beautiful and cool city. I’m glad we have a few more days here to take it in slowly.
