22nd November: Shanghai, China

Today was the first day of our chilled week in Shanghai. We bought a haul of oat milk and cereals from the supermarket last night and some fruit and snacks from shops nearby, so were well set for having a very laid-back morning in the room / micro apartment we’ve got here. I ventured out at about 1pm to find coffee and this area is actually quite nice just up the road. There were the usual old people playing games everywhere; a community flower show in a lovely little park with a lake; and children being congratulated on their way out of school, perhaps for passing exams? There are also plenty of food outlets for us to try out.

A milky sun poked through for most of the day today and before it had gone entirely – sunset is 16:45 – we decided to walk over the train lines and catch the metro into the city. The sun began to glow red and sink behind an aerosol layer well before sunset. When we arrived at the Bund – the old British ‘concession’ (colonial area) now most famous for its boutiques and views across the river – the skyscrapers of Pudong were bathed in a beautifully mellow reddish light. The skyline is breathtaking but what really makes it is the endless river traffic in the foreground on the Huangpu. This is an artery of trade, upon which the foundations of this city are built.

After gazing at the incredible view for a good while, we decided to treat ourselves to a special meal at one if the top vegan restaurants in the city. Obviously, we had to try plenty of dishes! Today’s selection was lion’s mane mushroom and broccoli in a sweet and umami sauce; crispy salt and pepper tofu; vegetable noodles in a delicious but delicate stock; cumin ‘lamb’ skewers; mushroom and spinach baos; rice; and jasmine tea. Difficult to pick a favourite as everything was delicious!

The metro back was rammed and involved a bit of pushing back to avoid being squashed. The network in Shanghai is very odd with many lines that intersect but without an interchange station. It feels very inefficient, and we had to take what felt like a long way around in both directions.