26th November: Shanghai, China

The temperature has dropped in eastern China with the overnight rain and cold front. The next week is set to be 10-12C during the day and only just above freezing at night, although sunny and crisp. I under-dressed for the conditions as we headed out for a wander. Soon, we were predictably distracted by the shopping centre at the metro exit for coffee, tea and snacks in the warmth. There was a bakery with all kinds of treats, and we settled on a delicious slightly sweet rye bread with almonds on top. It’s unusual to find bread products in China made with anything other than white flour, so this was a pleasant surprise.

Our plan was to figure out transport options for a day trip to a water town, which was an epic failure so we’ll DIY it tomorrow. The walk across the stadium park in the late November sunshine was relaxing though, with the concrete monoliths beautifully set against the blue skies. Nearby was the French ‘concession’ area, so we jumped on the metro a couple of stops to take a quick look at how this contrasted with modern Shanghai.

Most metro stations here have multiple numbered exits, which sometimes bring you out a long distance apart on different sides of busy roads. A fair few also usually lead directly into shopping centres or food courts, which we keep getting tempted by! Xujiahui had 19 metro station exits to choose from. Fortunately, Kaja is on the ball with these, and we exited at the correct one for the French cathedral. It wasn’t all that impressive and felt out of place, as indeed it is, amongst this bustling Chinese city. Next door was a gorgeous modernist library, or as it is called here a “new era civilization practice centre”. I like the Chinese name better for, after all, what they are building is the new era for civilisation. We are already living in this multi-polar ‘future’, even if the west, to its own detriment, refuses to accept this reality and move with the times.

Although Christmas isn’t officially celebrated in China, we’re beginning to see more and more decorations in shopping centres and hotels. With this, the cathedral and the late autumn weather it feels a little bit too much like the European winter! To end this quiet day, another buffet of course! I was sensible today and even had room for a dessert of a Swiss roll and dragon fruit. The savoury items are still my favourites though, especially stewed yam, tofu hotpot, marinated wheat gluten ‘meats’, and various sweet, spicy, and ginger pickles for balance.