31st December: Dali, China
There were fireworks in the night at around 2am but nobody seems entirely sure why! It could perhaps have been something to do with the new lunar month beginning today. The marking of this occasion was visible when I went for a walk to find coffee in the morning. Some buildings, including our hotel, had two large purple handmade incense sticks burning outside the entrance. Sitting on the roof terrace sipping coffee, with Lake Erhai in front, Changshan behind, and the warm sun beating down from above felt incredible peaceful. We’re back in the rested and relaxed vibe again now.
After doing some planning, we ventured out into the old town once more. Before leaving the hotel, we had another lovely chat with Shan and swapped food recommendations. We were also introduced to the owner’s pet bird – which was a petrified little thing living in a tiny cage – and the even worse-fated tank of crickets which were destined to be its food! There was also a baby terrapin, which was apparently being rescued.
Away from the tour group hubbub, Dali is a lovely town with cafes on every corner and a great food scene. From one small bakery we took a mango and pomelo sweet bread. This was kind of a giant less-spiced hot cross bun with occasional pockets of divine fruit sauce.
Zig-zagging east, past exquisitely decorated Bai buildings, we eventually reached the East Gate of the city. The views back west were gorgeous as sun rays poked through the clouds, which seems to forever be atop Changshan, illuminating sections of the mountain like a spotlight on a stage.
We tried to head directly to the south gate but found a large military base in the way. That turned out to be a stroke of fortune, however, as we spotted a golden retriever puppy outside a shop. Kaja got to have some cuddles and was over the moon! Incredibly, 30 seconds after walking away, we saw another running down the next street towards its mum.
We did unfortunately have to brave the horrible tourist streets to get to the south gate but by now we’re experts at ignoring every single seller of tat and standing our ground to avoid being steamrollered by tour groups. Some of the towers along this way were very pretty, especially with the pink blossoms blooming along the streets. To arrive at these city walls and gates as a trader on the tea horse road hundreds of years ago must’ve been akin to a farmer rocking up in Chongqing today.
On our earlier wanderings, we’d spotted a restaurant we were keen to try down a side street. Kaja was set on having a mushroom burger, which turned out to be very tasty. We also shared a typical tofu casserole and some rose tea. My two choices, however, were my favourite combination so far on this trip. The pairing of Bai style crispy ‘chicken’, made from tofu skin and carrying just enough heat from chillies and freshness from limes; with sweet-sour cherry tomatoes which had been fermented in plum juice and osmanthus was perfect. I’d eat that again any day!
Walking back in the dark, fireworks were being sold on the streets and going off in all directions. We were most excited about talking to try another goldie though! Back at the hotel, the fireworks in all directions were a sight to behold. Shan joined us on the roof to watch, until we all got too chilly. I thought it might be something to do with the new lunar month, but people seem to think it is in fact for the Gregorian New Year. Just this morning, we were discussing it there’d be any celebration and the consensus was no! The fireworks have kept going right through the evening from darkness at 6 up until I write this at half 11. It must be incredible for Lunar New Year (which is four weeks away) when it’s a date that people here actually celebrate!
