25th January: Sukhothai, Thailand to Chiang Mai, Thailand
We woke up pre-dawn again to try to catch the alms giving on the bridge across the lake to Wat Traphang Thong. Given how quiet it’s felt in the historical part of Sukhothai, we were shocked by the number of people already sat with gifts along the entire length of the bridge. Just as the 13 monks emerged from the temple grounds, a giant coach turned up with their whole number joining the throng. Unfortunately, it was also a disrespectful crowd, many of whom gave everything to the first few monks in line and then got up and left, turning their backs on the monks still in front of them! We felt sorry for the monks, although they did share a massive trailer of goodies between them. It was totally at odds with our experience of Sukhothai up until then.
Regardless, the sunrise was another beauty.
To get back the 70km to Phitsanulok for the train, our options seemed a bit limited. We couldn’t establish the bus times yesterday online or in town but resolved to pay for a Grab taxi. However, after checking out we ran into a big problem. The drivers who accepted, told us in turn that they couldn’t take the job after all as it was to a different province. By this point, we were a little panicked as we had under 3 hours and no real idea of how else to get there. The hotel staff and one of the taxi drivers suggested getting to the bus station in the provincial capital, Sukhothai Thani, about 15km away. As we set off, in the back of a slow tuktuk, I had a sinking feeling. There wasn’t really another option to get to Chiang Mai today, if we missed this train.
At Sukhothai bus station, there was a long-distance bus to Bangkok due to leave in 10 minutes. It would pass Phitsanulok but we couldn’t establish where it would stop – most go to a station well out of town. Thinking we were short of time, we tried Grab again from here. A driver turned up but then wouldn’t let us in. As it turns out, there was a significant fee to pay for drivers to cross the provincial border. As usual with these platforms, it’s the drivers who lose out and would at best break even on the trip. He was happy to explain, and we mutually cancelled the journey. Yet more hard-working people screwed over by the corporations of the gig economy. Fortunately, the coach hadn’t yet left, and we got on board! A quick check of the so-far reliable Thai Railways tracker suggested the train was late, so even if we had to get a local taxi at the other end we should still make it.
As it happens, the coach actually went through the town and dropped us within a kilometre of the train station! After a warm stroll down the sign-filled main street, we arrived well before the delayed train. Phew! I even had time to head out and get us some lunch. What a lunch it was too – 45 baht each for a huge portion of brown rice and three veggie dishes on top. My three of sweet tofu, tom yum mushrooms, and red curried pineapple were a fantastic combination.
We settled into the 6-hour journey and began to relax a little once more. At least, until 90 minutes in at Uttaradit where we seemed to be stationary for a bit too long. In the reflection of the station windows, Kaja saw a group of people in hardhats looking at the front of the train. Oh no. At this point, a diesel locomotive chugged by, having decoupled from a freight train. A few minutes and the jerk of coupling later, it was attached to the front of our train instead and we were off once more! Ingenuity (and the benefits of a holistic nationalised railway system) at its finest!
An hour behind schedule now, we were just glad to be back moving slowly north, from the plains and into the forested hills. As the sun began to set once more, small and rocky mountains appeared on both horizons. As the orange afterglow finally faded, we continued to creep north, head long into the pitch-black night. After two early starts in a row and a long travel day, we dozed on the bouncy makeshift train, and took a Grab with a super-friendly driver to our disappointing, mosquito-ridden hotel. Chiang Mai will have to wait until tomorrow.