27th January: Chiang Mai, Thailand
It’s cloudy today and a very pleasant 20C. Rumour has it that there were even a few spots of rain early in the morning, but we didn’t see any. We’re both feeling a little under the weather – nothing serious, just very tired and lacking in energy – so had another slow start.
After walking into town, via a crepe stall and a small Wat, we popped into the same cool coffee shop as yesterday for a delicious cappuccino. This place is just around the corner from the impressive Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, with its large gold stupas. Inside the temple, there were very life-like models of sitting monks. To be honest, it was a bit unsettling, especially the ones with glasses on!
Being a major temple, there are usually cheap vegetarian options nearby and this was no different. We were able to get a plate of rice and three dishes for 65 (£1.60) baht each.
Next on our agenda was Watchediluang Varaviharn. The first thing we noticed at this temple was a building right inside the gate with signs saying men only. There was a smaller sign beside it explaining that women were not allowed in due to menstruation, which “humiliates and ruins the sanctity of the city pillar”. Well, I would say that this rule humiliates the city and the religion. Whilst I respect the spiritual aspects that many draw from religion, it is indisputably a fact that religions across the world exist to simultaneously subjugate women and prevent people from overthrowing the wealthy and powerful. They wouldn’t have been allowed to exist and grow by those in power if that hadn’t been the case.
We sat outside, resting and trying to get our head around the place. There was a very impressive half-destroyed stone stupa in the gardens. In the main hall (which women were not banned from), you could pay to apply gold leaf to Buddha’s for each day of the week. Rather than pay for this, we bought a delicious coconut ice cream and brownie around the corner instead!
Slowly wandering in, we were still lacking energy, so decided on more food! Reluctantly, I agreed to go back to the place we had breakfast at yesterday. It’s an absolute shambles but it was at least fun sitting in the middle of a sitcom for an hour. My pad Thai was terrible with inedible salty noodles but was at least topped with plentiful tofu and veggies. Kaja’s Massaman curry was actually pretty decent. The owner apologised and offered a discount as she’d also done with every other customer! With a bit more energy, we walked a little way north to Wat Chiang Man, which sat amongst beautiful grounds. Dozens of orchids grew from the trees outside and the white, red, and gold temple buildings sat in front of dark foliage and leaden skies. The backstreets around this area are really cool, with tonnes of cafes, markets, and a lovely vibe. I can see why Chiang Mai is so popular with digital nomads. It’s not our absolute favourite place, but for a stay of a few months it would appear to be very liveable.
