14th January: Vientiane, Laos to Udon Thani, Thailand
Rather than risk buses, we used Loca to get ourselves across town on a slightly hazy morning. Khamsavath Train Station is surprisingly new and large. We were expecting an old city station but, according to the signs inside, trains have actually only been running from here to Bangkok for 6 months. None of the immigration facilities were active and there was nobody around and no indication of where to go or what to do. Eventually, we established that we needed to fill out an exit form and have our passport stamped in a side room. The border guard wanted ‘exit fees’. Kaja had called her out and gotten our passports back without paying before I’d even processed the scam.
Laos has been mixed for us. Vientiane was a little underwhelming, but Luang Prabang one is our favourite places of the entire trip. The people have been incredibly welcoming, the weather fantastic, and the food fresh and tasty. We’d love to come back and explore away from the major cities.
We boarded an almost empty train – perhaps a dozen passengers spread across 6 carriages – and slowly rolled south across the fringes of Vientiane. I think this is the first diesel train we’ve been on since Georgia. Before crossing the Mekong, an extended area was given over to import/export, mainly full of shipping containers being driven by trucks. We passed over the Friendship Bridge (road traffic having temporarily been halted in favour of the train) where Laos flags became Thai ones. On the Thai side, we got off to get our passports stamped and for a rudimentary bag check. I’ve always been concerned about border crossings in this part of the world having heard scare stories in the past of people having drugs planted upon them. It was very chilled here though, although unfortunately there no way to get any Thai baht so I wasn’t able to get coffee!
Back on the train for the short ride on to Udon Thani, we were the only people in our coach on the train. At least we could practice our Thai pronunciations in peace. The conductor came and turned around once pair of seats for us to face forwards and have a good view! The train door was wide open the entire journey and at the one lovely little intermediate station the entire process was manual. The signaller smiled and waved at us as we left, whilst waving his green flag. I guess this was welcome to Thai Railways!
It’s very laid back and friendly compared to the to the Chinese network. The speed was slow, we travelled at grade with level crossings and arrived a bit late, but didn’t mind at all. One thing we noticed were the number of herons and storks in the damp fields and swamps all around. Their numbers were astonishing, which was very pleasing to see.
We got off the train in Udon Thani and walked a few hundred metres before coming across a market. It was lovely and chilled with coffee stalls, food stands and plenty of seats in the middle. I had the best oatmilk coffee I’ve had in a long time and the watermelon smoothie was delicious too. Udon Thani seems surprisingly lovely on first glance. There are no discernible attractions and it was a very random place to stop. We had no idea what to expect but it seems like the sort of chilled place we both enjoy.
Lunch of larp, sweet dark autumnally spiced tofu, and coconut curry was delicious and cheap from a small restaurant. We chilled until dinner before venturing out for more snacks! This time a couple of sides – chana masala and saga aloo – with some rotis from an Indian place. Nothing much else of note happened in the evening, except for the amount of static electricity from the bed sheets in the hotel. They actually visibly flashed when you moved around or touched them! I’ve never seen that before and wonder what they could’ve been made of!