24th January: Sukhothai, Thailand
We grabbed our bikes from yesterday, clipped our awesome little torch to Kaja’s bag strap in red flashing mode, and set off into the darkness. Monks were audibly chanting in the distance, interrupted every few seconds by crowing cockerels.
On the main street, there seemed to be a hubbub of people waiting for alms giving. Perhaps something for tomorrow morning! We continued west along the main road, feeling the freedom of the cold night air through our hair. I want to cycle again, much more often. Turning off as we reached the edge of the hills, which had appeared distant from town, we chose a hilltop Wat from which to watch the sun rise.
Leaving the bikes at the bottom, we climbed the rocky slope. We were probably one hill too far over for the perfect view but that didn’t matter now as the glow built on the horizon. The rising sun was dark red through the aerosol rich atmosphere. Low-lying smoke or fog patches sat between trees back down on the plain.
Wat Saphan Hin, where we should’ve been for sunrise, was the most spectacular of a line of hilltop wats. A stone standing buddha looked out between columns back towards the ancient city. This area is the western zone of the historical park, but we were so early that the ticket sellers hadn’t yet arrived when we passed the entrance, so we were able to explore regardless given it’s on open roads. On the back roads back to town, the Wat Mangkorn complex was the highlight.
Our 15km loop finished in the cool of early morning, we were back at the hotel in time for breakfast! After yesterday’s full day in the heat, we stayed inside for the strongest sun today and only ventured back out for a late lunch and to explore again once the UV and temperature had fallen.
The final area we’d not been to was the Northern zone, outside of the old city walls in that direction. Given it’s the same price as the central zone, it would be easy to be disappointed as there are only two Wats. However, Wat Phra Phai Luang and Wat Si Chum are incredibly detailed and there was barely anyone around save for some art students. Bizarrely, the peaceful area for contemplation and meditation had its quiet broken by a pick up truck with giant loud speakers blaring some kind of local election manifesto! I’m guessing they won’t be getting the monk vote! (do monks vote?).
Pedalling the back roads once more back towards the town, there were Wats in all directions amongst trees in the golden sunlight. It felt like being in an Indiana Jones film! Looking it up now, apparently there was an Indiana Jones game set here.
Fortunately, the coconut ice cream stall at the night market was already up and running and we needed no further invitation to sit on a rug by the lake and eat a delicious bowl each.
On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings, we’d heard there was another night market inside the central historical park and that entry would be free after 6pm. As it was quarter to, we chanced our arms and after a few smiles and a little wavering we were allowed in just in time for sunset! These 15 minutes made all of the difference as we watched a red sun fall behind Wat Sa Si and the distant hills. It might’ve been my favourite sunset of the trip. The name Sukhothai means “Dawn of Happiness”, which feels very fitting for our time here. The market was great too and we sat working our way through freshly fried spring rolls and tofu on another rug by the shore. Giant fish swarmed the edges of the lake in enormous numbers, as if the water was boiling! The sky turned orange and then pink, the spires silhouetted majestically before fading into the dark.
