30th January: Chiang Mai, Thailand to Nakhon Sawan, Thailand
Our tuktuk to the train station was like a getaway in the Italian Job, ignoring the main roads in favour of flying through back alleys and closed indoor markets. It was a fun ride and we made good time. So good, in fact, that we were able to have a leisurely coffee and some toast at the station before our 8:50 departure back south.
Today’s journey will approximately follow the course of the Ping River south. As recently as three months ago, this waterway through Chiang Mai flooded much of the city in 1.5 metres of water. You’d barely know today, aside from a few high-water marks. The Ping is one of Thailand’s great rivers and, like most of the others, eventually has a confluence with the mighty Chao Phraya. In the case of the Ping, this happens at our destination for the day, the city of Nakhon Sawan.
This train, or carriage at least, is much comfier than our two previous journeys on the Bangkok-Chiang Mai Special Express. It’s one of the few times in buses, trains, or taxis recently when the headrests haven’t been uncomfortably at the height of my upper back! Most of East Asia is, perhaps understandably, built for people significantly shorter than me. I think this is most obvious when trying to walk down pavements or through markets, however, where sunshades are usually set at my eye height. Not ideal when I’m having neck trouble and having to duck every few steps!
We sat back on the comfy train and tucked in to the delicious fried banana from outside of the station. Northern Thailand unrolled itself outside the window, with forested hills coated in spider webs in the morning light.
One fantastic thing across the Thai Railways network is their pride in the history of rail. This was apparent at Nakhon Lampang, where a roundabout included a circle of track and multiple old locomotives and pieces of equipment at on display around the station.
The journey ran smoothly, and we actually arrived in Nakhon Sawan bang on time. A handful of locals and one other visitor got off. It doesn’t seem to be a popular destination! We shared a songthaew ride with Ingrid from Brazil, who told us that this was her 6th time in Thailand and she was looking for more unusual things to do this time around. We passed plenty of decorations for Chinese New Year on the road into town, including a bridge over the Chao Phraya with impressive giant dragons. This is why we were here. Tomorrow night, Thailand’s biggest Chinese New Year parade happens in Nakhon Sawan and apparently it rivals anything in Asia!
To get from the hotel to the city centre (or where we thought it might be, anyway) meant crossing a chaotic road. 5 lanes ran in each direction and traffic was speeding through but luckily there were traffic lights, if not any kind of pedestrian signals. After checking, I realised that this is the main north-south highway through Thailand!
Road crossed, everything suddenly felt calm. There was a large lake with permanent dragon sculptures on its edge. They looked spectacular in the golden light. We soon realised that we were walking against a significant flow of people running and walking around the lake, so much so that we crossed over via an island to make sure we were moving with the crowds. It turned out to be the annual Dragon Run as part of the New Year festivities.
Still unable to find the city centre (every mapping app has it in wildly different locations), we looked around to head back. There didn’t seem to be many places open, but after asking at a couple of back-alley restaurants we found somewhere to cook us a vegetable stir fry with some rice and an egg. Another customer helped us order off-menu, took it upon himself to make us drinks, and then everyone took turns trying to explain to us where the centre and parade areas are! The restaurant was a cross between someone’s front room, an oily repair shop, and a makeshift outdoor cooking space. As with all the best places and experiences, the people made it.